Showing posts with label ra'mon-lawrence coleman. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ra'mon-lawrence coleman. Show all posts

A closer look: Sol Inspirations' designer challenge

When I first wrote my initial review of last Saturday's Sol Inspirations eco-fashion show for Vita.mn, I was missing a handful of images from each of the six competing designers. Now that more images have trickled in, I wanted to take a more in-depth look at each designer's three looks.

Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman
, in town from his new home in New York, had the most relevant, stylish collection of the bunch. His stunning orange gown with a high slit at the back thigh was best-in-show and the drape, bold color and asymmetry were all quintessentially Ra'mon, though the African print jacket he paired with it looked a little dated and thrown-on. (Apparently, the jacket was added to satisfy the solar panel requirement.) I didn't notice the beaded shoulder until looking at photos now, and it's quite a lovely, exotic detail.

[Photo by Jules Christman]


His sustainable look is a another perfect example of Ra'mon's signature aesthetic: a classic, figure-flattering silhouette rendered in pretty fabrics, which a lent an edge by giving a slightly disheveled and asymmetrical look to it all.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

For his upcycled look, Ra'mon played with artistic colorblocking. Despite the unusual shapes and gathers, I think it is an unusual, eye-catching design - especially when looking at the textures of the fabric up close:



Niki English's was my initial choice for the winner. She wowed with a trio of looks that pushed the boundaries of what would be considered wearable, and of the designers, most fully lived up to the challenges. Her strongest look was a neon tie-dyed dress with two metallic side panels and a black, shiny yoke, which worked to satisfy the challenge (upcycled fabrics) while exhibiting Niki's signature futuristic, gothy edginess and pushing the boundaries.

[Photo by Jules Christman]


She wasn't quite as successful with her bodiced dress outfitted with a jutting, sculptural, tulle-filled skirt. Though the bodice was gorgeous, my only criticism would be that she perhaps took her designs too far, incorporating too many elements into one piece.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Once again, for her sustainable fabrics challenge, she perhaps over-designed a bit, meshing tons of multi-colored fabric with L.E.D. lights. The look could have used a waist, and all that folded fabric ended up making the (very thin) model look a bit thick. But of the designer, Niki seemed to push design a bit more and really put on a show, which seems to be the point of a design competition. More is better than less in this case.


Project Runway season six contestant and local darling Christopher Straub won the competition with three edgy, architectural looks. Surprisingly, they were more McQueen than the ruffly, cute looks he's better known for. That's not to say the looks weren't well-designed - I particularly liked his printed denim bustier & leggings (though on the fence the froo froo underskirt) for the upcycled challenge - but they didn't seem very Christopher.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

In fact, his unusual materials look couldn't be more McQueen (spring 2010 specifically) with its insect-like bodice and detailed, graphic print.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

The same went for his sustainable fabrics look, which was edgy yet organic. I do love the fabric selected for the dress, which appears to have a bamboo print. In the end, I shouldn't have been so surprised that Straub won - the three looks are all well-constructed, cohesive and satisfied the challenges. But the looks have been done before, whereas it seemed like at least Niki English was reaching for something more, and Ra'mon showed innovation while staying true to his unique aesthetic.



For her upcycled challenge, formerly-local knitwear designer Allilamodie (now based out of Chicago) showed a chic, oversized knit sweater over skinny leather-looking pants - a strong streetwear look to be sure, but it didn't exactly say "design competition." Based on the strength of her design portfolio on her website, it does seem like the designer is upping her game as of late. She may be one to watch when it comes to chunky, ready-to-wear knits.

[Photo via Art of Wore]

For her unusual materials look, she selected an intriguing "fabric," the metallic material she used appearing scale-like and creating interesting movement as it went down the runway. It wasn't clear what materials were incorporated, and that's one qualm I had with the show - information regarding materials from what each piece was crafted wasn't provided. As for the design of the dress, I don't think it's particularly flattering, and the back had some extremely strange fringe on the shoulders:

[Photo by Jules Christman]

[Photo via Art of Wore]

New-to-Minneapolis designer Tara LaTour's bridal-y dresses were cute and well-constructed but pretty safe. (Apparently, she is best-known for her bridal designs.) And in white and off-white shades, they faded into the background amongst the other more highly-designed pieces other designers sent down the runway.

[Photo by Jules Christman]



The team of Atom Pechman and Jenn Bratvold too seemed outmaneuvered by the competition. I had to review the photos from the show to remember what they showed, and that's never a good sign. In photos, the looks don't appear to fit the model all that well, or just aren't well-constructed to begin with. For this look, the boots stole the show - which isn't a good sign in a design competition. The jacket is sort of a cool idea conceptually, but it strangely cuts the model off in mid-bust. And what is that fabric - crushed velvet?


[Photos by Jules Christman]

Apart from being rendered in awful-looking fabrics, this hooded look is also quite strangely designed. Who wants to wear a vest that is only open to expose the breasts?

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Their upcycled look was sort of pretty (if impractical) with its flowing chiffon half-train and bodice with short-shorts.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Click here for more photos by Jules Christman.

Style diary: Sol Inspirations eco-fashion show

Last Saturday, I attended the Sol Inspirations eco-fashion show. (Read my review for Vita.mn here.) Since my old friend and longtime collaborator Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman was one of the competing designers, I found it only fitting to wear one of his designs - a one-of-a-kind runway piece from his spring 2008 collection (borrowed from the closet of Emma Berg). I paired it with a bright yellow feather neckpiece by new accessory designer KR Designs (currently available at Cliche for about $64), a beaded silk baguette given to me by friend Teri, and blue silk ankle-wrap pumps by DKNY from Opitz Outlet.

Here I am with designer Raul Osorio and l'etoile creative director and founder Beth Hammarlund.

[Photo via Art of Wore]

Here I am with former Minneapolitan Hina Khan (who does a fun style blog), in town from L.A. for the weekend in a spring 2011 Needle & Black dress by Kerry Riley; Raul; Beth; and designer Emma Berg in Raul Osorio spring 2011.

MNfashion Week in review: Sol Inspirations

[Originally posted at Vita.mn]

It's hard to believe a large-scale eco-fashion show has never taken place in the Twin Cities. This bit of trivia was espoused by Sol Inspirations and the Global Eco Organization founder Alex Detrick as he introduced the show from the runway in an asymmetrical Asian-inspired shirt. After all, we're unofficially the bike city of the U.S. (by Bicycle Magazine), the home base of the Horst eco-beauty empire (Aveda, Juut Salonspas and Intelligent Nutrients), and according to a study, we've got cleaner skies and water than any other city in the United States with the exception of a Pacific island.

The show took place in The Depot, which houses an ice rink during winter months and weddings during the rest of the year. With its high ceilings, expansive space and plentiful windows, it's an ideal venue for a fashion show. The show kicked off with a runway show impeccably styled by Hollie Mae Schultz of HM Styling with fun, oversized headbands and accessories from KR Designs, Rewind Vintage, and shoes from eco-friendly brand Naya on Ignite models. (I happened to be wearing a brightly colored feather neckpiece by KR Designs with my Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman dress to the show.)

It was fun to see local lines Jenny Carle, Kathryn V, CounterCouture and Renalie Bailey paired together with the Hollie Mae touch. Having seen most of the pieces shown in Envision, Avoid the Grey and Voltage: Fashion Amplified this spring, it was nice to see the looks given a fresh Hollie Mae touch, some of the different designers even paired together.





However, it was a bit of a disappointment to see some fall 2010 pieces from Jenny Carle showing up on the runway along with some Renalie Bailey showpieces that - stunning as the pieces were - are at least two years old. (After the show, Bailey explained to me that originally she had planned to include some new designs in the show, but as the result of miscommunications with the event organizers the line didn't happen.) It should go without saying but fashion show producers should realize that those of us covering fashion in the Twin Cities will definitely take note.

[A look by Jenny Carle]

[A look by Renalie Bailey]

[A look by Renalie Bailey]

Afterward, others showcased some unusual materials designs. Of particular note was interior designers Victoria Steidler and Anne Graham's stunning wood bodice and skirt, which was used for the Sol Inspirations promo image.



UPDATE: It's since been brought to my attention that this dress is a nearly exact copy of the Hussein Chalayan A/W 2000 Wooden Table Dress:


Then the competition portion of the show was underway. The six designers showed designs one by one in each category of the competition: Non-traditional fabrics; recycled or upcycled materials; sustainable fabrics (plus one of the three looks had to include solar panels within the design).

For her upcycled challenge, local knitwear designer Allilamodie showed a chic, oversized knit sweater over skinny leather-looking pants - a strong streetwear look to be sure, but was it really pushing the idea that this was a design competition?

Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman, in town from his new home in New York, had the most relevant, stylish collection of the bunch. His stunning orange gown with a high slit at the back thigh was best-in-show (though the African print jacket he paired with it looked a little dated and thrown-on).



New-to-Minneapolis designer Tara LaTour's bridal-y dresses were cute and well-constructed but pretty safe. And in white and off-white shades, they faded into the background amongst the other more highly-designed pieces other designers sent down the runway.


The team of Atom Pechman and Jenn Bratvold seemed outmaneuvered by the competition. I had to review the photos from the show to remember what they showed, and that's never a good sign.



Niki English's wowed with a trio of looks that pushed the boundaries of what would be considered wearable, and of the designers, most fully lived up to the challenges. Her bodiced dress with a jutting, sculptural skirt filled with tulle and a tie-dyed dress with two metallic side panels had the most personality of the bunch, exhibiting Niki's signature futuristic, gothy edginess and pushing the boundaries. My only criticism would be that she perhaps took her designs too far, incorporating too many elements into one piece.



Project Runway season six contestant and local darling Christopher Straub showed three looks that were more McQueen than the ruffly, cute looks he's better known for. That's not to say the looks weren't well-designed - I particularly liked his printed denim bustier & leggings (though on the fence the froo froo underskirt) - but they didn't seem very Christopher.



The show went out with a bang during the finale of the show, a showing of the conceptual SolarWorld collection by Project Runway season seven winner Seth Aaron Henderson.

The seven-piece collection was full of architectural shapes rendered in PVC (with a little bit of silk and cotton thrown in), all stunningly constructed. My favorite looks included a black jacket with Minnie Mouse-like sleeves and an extremely wearable black and white-striped dress. He introduced the show by saying the collection is purely theatrical and not meant to be worn off the runway, but there were more than a few pieces that I would've died to wear on the street. Perhaps he underestimates us Minnesotans.











Finally, it was announced that Straub was the winner of the competition (and a $5,000 cash prize) with his collection of uncharacteristically architectural looks. It was a bit of an upset as Niki English seemed the clear winner with her trio of over-the-top, edgy looks. I heard that Straub was selected as the winner for showing the most cohesive collection, which seems off on various counts - it wasn't all that cohesive, and since when was cohesion mentioned in this design competition as a deciding factor? It was a head-scratcher of a decision, not to say that Straub didn't show a decent collection. It's just that English's better delivered to the competition.


All in all, it was an entertaining show for a good cause. The mark on the environment caused by the fashion industry is not the most glamorous side of the industry, but eco-fashion and entities like the Global Eco Organization are doing what they can to clean fashion up.

[All images Jules Christman-Photography courtesy of VimLab/Ignite Models Inc.]

More Sol Inspirations coverage:

Metromix takes crowd and runway shots.

METRO Magazine fashion editor Mary O'Regan takes runway and crowd shots for her blog, Art of Wore.

Hina Khan has backstage photos of the Evolution Hair team at work.

Beth Hammarlund reviews the show for l'etoile magazine.